Seven Photographs that changed Fashion

Cecil Beaton:

‘Sir Cecil Beaton was born on January 14, 1904 in London. In the 1920’s, he was hired as a staff photographer for ‘Vanity fair’ and ‘Vogue’ where he earned renown for a unique style of posing sitters with unusual backgrounds. He later became an award-winning costume designer for the stage and big screen. Beaton died of a heart attack in England on January 18, 1980.

The original 'hat box' image was created in 1930 with model Elsa Schiaparrel using a 10 by 8 large format film camera (which shows the image upside down). Rankin recreated this image with English model Sophie Ellis-Bexter as he believed she had similar qualities to the original model. He used a digital camera. There are subtle changes to Beaton's images such as the hat and the model but most of the image is very much the same as the original.'

What do I like about this artist's work?

Cecil was very keen about his profession. He got his first camera at just 11, and was taught how to use by his nurse. He wasn't just a simple photographer. He worked in theatre, ballet and opera. Cecil also won 3 Oscars throughout his lifetime. His black and white work to me is very interesting. He put a lot of thought into costume's, background and lighting. 

(no date) Available at: 
http://www.biography.com/people/cecil-beaton-38501#synopsis (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

joannatayloruk (2013) 7 photographs that changed fashion - Rankin’s hat box. Available at: https://joannatayloruk.wordpress.com/2013/11/25/7-photographs-that-changed-fashion-rankins-hat-box/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Erwin Blumenfeld:

‘Erwin (1897-1969) was a photographer and artist born in Germany. He was regarded as one of the most influential photographers of the twentieth century. An experimenter and innovator, he produced an extensive body of work throughout his thirty-five year career including black and white portraits and nudes, celebrity portraiture, advertising campaigns and his renowned fashion photography.

The image on the right is the ‘doe eye’ cover shot by Erwin for Vogue in January 1950. The model, Jean Patchett, was reduced to a flat white background with a perfect pair of lips, a beauty spot and one eye highlighted by a single flick of eyeliner.’

What do I like about this artist’s work?

Erwin’s images were never predicted. His images, to me speak a thousand words. He’s worked with both men and women from all races, including iconic celebrities. I believe he was ahead of his time in his style and experimentation which is what makes him different to other photographers. He definitely left his mark in the world of photography and fashion.

Blumenfeld, E. and Brown, S. (2013) Home. Available at: 
http://www.erwinblumenfeld.com/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Richard Avendon:

'Richard (May 15, 1923-October 1, 2004) was an American fashion and portrait photographer. He worked first as a photographer for the Merchant Marines, taking identification photos. He then moved to fashion, shooting for 'Harper's Bazaar' and 'Vogue', demanding that his models convey emotion and movement, a departure from the norm and motionless fashion photography.

In this fashion photograph by Richard (Dovima and the elephants, taken in August 1955, Paris), Dovima (one of Vogue's highest paid models) is wearing a black Christian Dior dress with a white silk sash. The smooth, silky fabric contrasts with the rough wrinkled skin of the elephants. The model's calm demeanor also contrasts with the elephant's struggle with his chained foot. Her gesture and hand on the elephant's trunk are meant to suggest a goddess-like ability to tame the beast'.

What do I like about this artist's work?

After researching about Richard and looking at his work, I can see he was very passionate about his photography. He devoted nearly his entire life to capture the reality of his subjects. Richard was able to push photography into more than just pictures. There was a story behind most of his images. Photography to him was art and a way of storytelling.

(no date) Available at: 
http://www.biography.com/people/richard-avedon-9193034 (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Dovima with the elephants by Richard Avedon (no date) Available at: http://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_1339385 (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

David Bailey:

‘David (born 2^nd January 1938) is an English fashion and portrait photographer. Graduating from being an assistant with fashion photographer John French in 1959, he began the 1960’s with a contract with ‘Vogue’ to become the decade's iconic chronicler with two defining portrait publications. They focussed on a new social order that evolved from the decade of change. David was a leading figure in the Swinging Sixties London scene and had his first Museum exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery in 1971.

Typically classic and timeless, this 1963 image above by David Bailey originally featured Jane Shrimpton. Bailey was present at the shooting of this remake, posed for by Rankin's girlfriend Tuuli, a professional model. Tuuli doesn't look anything like Jane as she has long blonde hair, different facial feature and larger assets'. 

What do I like about this artist's work?

David's style was fresh and informal. Despite being dyslexic and from a working class family, he was able to work his way up into the world of fashion photography. He'll always be remembered for his star portraits simply because he does them better than most photographers. David seems to have a brilliant understanding of lighting and is highly passionate about what he does. 

What can you tell us? (2015) Available at: 
http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp05044/david-bailey (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Rankin: Seven photographs that changed fashion (2009) Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/4161221/Rankin-Seven-Photographs-that-Changed-Fashion.html?image=3 (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Helmut Newton:

‘Helmut (born 31 October 1920 – 23 January 2004) was a German-Australian photographer from Berlin. He was a prolific, widely imitated fashion photographer whose provocative, erotically charged black-and-white photos were a mainstay of ‘Vogue’ and other publications. Helmut’s early studies were at the American school in Berlin, however by 1936 as his fascination with photography began and his disinterest in school waned, he left school and started an apprenticeship with photographer ‘Elsie Simon’ whom he was highly inspired by throughout his career.

Helmut’s ‘Rue Aubriot’ image shows a woman standing alone in a city street at night. His camera has captured an intensely private moment; the figure’s inner calm is a marked contrast to the rakish cut of her suit. The woman in the photograph evokes a familiar figure from 19^th century French art. The photograph is unusual in Newton’s corpus in that the woman is fully clothed, her long legs and pinstripes echoing all the other strong verticals in the picture.’

What do I like about this artist’s work?

Throughout the years of Newton’s career, his work centred primarily on fashion, nudes and portraits with the three often mixing. Quite a lot of his images are sexual which makes him different from other photographers. Looking at his work, I can tell he spends a lot of time preparing and thinking about exactly what he wants to do.

Helmut Newton biography (no date) Available at:
http://www.hamiltonsgallery.com/artists/37-helmut-newton/biography/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

s, C. ? (1977) HELMUT NEWTON (1920-2004) -rue Aubriot, Paris, 1975. Available at: http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/lot/helmut-newton-rue-aubriot-paris-1975-4893166-details.aspx (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Herb Ritts:

‘Herbert (August 13, 1952 – December 26, 2002) was an American fashion photographer who concentrated mostly on black-and-white photography and portraits, often in the style of classical Greek sculpture. He began his photographic career in the late 70’s and gained a reputation as a master of art and commercial photography. Herb has created successful advertising campaigns for Vogue, Calvin Klein, Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Polo Ralph Lauren and many more brands. In 1988 he directed numerous influential and award-winning music videos and commercials. His fine art photography has been the subject of exhibitions worldwide, with works residing in many significant public and private collections.

The image that comes to mind when Herb’s name is mentioned was ‘Fred with Tires’, the image of a muscular young man (David Gandy) clad only in jeans that sag slightly below his waist. A rough and virile sexuality set against an evocative environment, the image became a runaway hit as a poster and was named one of the photos that changed fashion. The original photo shoot was intended for an Italian designer, but when Herb received the clothing, he and his stylist rejected it and dressed his model in overalls instead. The pictures were not what the magazine requested, but it was so powerful they ran them anyway causing a sensation.’

What do I like about this artist’s work?

Herb had the ability to make almost any subject look dramatic and interesting. In his work, he was drawn to clean lines and strong forms which allowed his images to be read and felt instantaneously.

Fred with tires (2010) Available at: 
https://iconicphotos.wordpress.com/2010/07/04/fred-with-tires/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Herb Ritts (no date) Available at: 
http://www.herbritts.com/#/about/biography/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Guy Bourdin:

‘Guy Bourdin (1928-1991) was born in Paris. A painter his entire life and self-taught photographer, he was working with magazine such as ‘Vogue’ as well as for brands such as ‘Chanel’. He exhibited his first photographs at ‘Galerie 29’ in 1952. Nowadays his work has been exhibited in the most prestigious museums, such as the V&A, The National art museum of China, The Moscow house of photography and many more. His oeuvres are part of the collection of many prestigious institutions such as The Getty museum of LA and the collection of the V&A among others. Guy is considered as one of the best known photographers of fashion and advertising of the second half of the 20th century. He set the stage for a new kind of fashion photography.

The image above is a shot for Vogue taken in Paris, 1977 by Guy. Much of his work featured red-headed, pale skinned, heavily made-up models, which were purposefully reminiscent of his mother. The scenes he used were carefully manufactured in order to create a surreal feeling to his photos. Guy captured the atmosphere of the 1970's with sharp humour, erotism and outrageous femininity.’

What do I like about this artist’s work?

Guys work to me is very unique with a different twist. I tend to find a lot of his images quite mysterious. They’re bizarre, but I think in a good way. He’s worked mostly with women, often producing sexual images.

Guy Bourdin – official website (no date) Available at: 
http://www.guybourdin.com/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Sunshyne, D. (2013) ICONICA: Guy Bourdin. Available at: https://wonderlandiablog.wordpress.com/2013/04/02/icons-guy-bourdin/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).