Bibliography

(no date) Available at: 
http://www.biography.com/people/cecil-beaton-38501#synopsis (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

joannatayloruk (2013) 7 photographs that changed fashion - Rankin’s hat box. Available at: https://joannatayloruk.wordpress.com/2013/11/25/7-photographs-that-changed-fashion-rankins-hat-box/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Blumenfeld, E. and Brown, S. (2013) Home. Available at: 

http://www.erwinblumenfeld.com/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

(no date) Available at: 
http://www.biography.com/people/richard-avedon-9193034 (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Dovima with the elephants by Richard Avedon (no date) Available at: http://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_1339385 (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

What can you tell us? (2015) Available at: 
http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp05044/david-bailey (Accessed: 7 December 2015).


Rankin: Seven photographs that changed fashion (2009) Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/4161221/Rankin-Seven-Photographs-that-Changed-Fashion.html?image=3 (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Helmut Newton biography (no date) Available at:
http://www.hamiltonsgallery.com/artists/37-helmut-newton/biography/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

s, C. ? (1977) HELMUT NEWTON (1920-2004) -rue Aubriot, Paris, 1975. Available at: http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/lot/helmut-newton-rue-aubriot-paris-1975-4893166-details.aspx (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Fred with tires (2010) Available at: 
https://iconicphotos.wordpress.com/2010/07/04/fred-with-tires/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Herb Ritts (no date) Available at: 
http://www.herbritts.com/#/about/biography/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Guy Bourdin – official website (no date) Available at: 
http://www.guybourdin.com/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Sunshyne, D. (2013) ICONICA: Guy Bourdin. Available at: https://wonderlandiablog.wordpress.com/2013/04/02/icons-guy-bourdin/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

(no date) Available at: 

http://favim.com/image/167983/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Macleod, D. (2007) Dove pro-age women. Available at: 

http://advertisingforadults.com/2007/02/dove-pro-age-women/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Special effects makeup (no date) Available at: 

https://www.pinterest.com/explore/special-effects-makeup/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Marilyn Monroe’s beauty was artificial? (no date) Available at: 

http://english.pravda.ru/society/stories/14-06-2007/93326-marilyn_monroe-0/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Andy Warhol. Marilyn Monroe. 1962-67. Museum of modern art, New York city, in the ‘Screenprint’ section. 65 x 65 cm: Andy Warhol: * FAMOUS PAINTERS *: Reproduction: Paintings: Art: IBay pro shopping mall e-shop Lichtenstein (no date) Available at: 

http://ibay.li/product.php?productid=17342 (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Ambient light (no date) Available at: 
http://www.mediacollege.com/lighting/ambient/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

ShortCourses-Understanding hard and soft light (no date) Available at: http://www.shortcourses.com/tabletop/lighting2-8.html (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

(no date) Available at: 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backlighting_(lighting_design) (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Understanding lighting: Front light, back light & side light (no date) Available at: 
http://www.my-photo-school.com/2013/11/13/understanding-lighting-direction/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Ehlert, S. (2015) Definition of lighting for photography. Available at: http://www.ehow.com/about_6551792_definition-lighting-photography.html (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

ShortCourses-The rim light (no date) Available at: 

http://www.shortcourses.com/use/using6-15.html (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Tirosh, U. (2007) ‘Reviews’, DIY, 4 October. Available at: 
http://www.diyphotography.net/lighting-high-key-and-low-key/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Colour beauty

Monchrome beauty

Practice

Casting a model

•          Always do a casting session, even when working with professional models.
•          You can ask to see your model face-to-face or an unedited image of him/her if you wish as Photoshop is unfortunately heavily used today. You can also ask to see them on Facetime or Skype if they live far.
•          When looking at portfolios, try to look out for a variety of poses. Professional models should be able to strike a different pose continuously during shoots. Inexperienced models will need to be directed.
•          Communicate with your model during shoots as directly and openly as possible. Remember they’re not mind readers.
•          You need to look after your model (pay for travel expenses, food and drink).
•          Keep in mind the genre of the shoot and where/when it will be taking place. For example don’t take beauty shots outside in the dark.
•          Some models are hard to book so if you’re looking to hire a specific person, make sure you contact them way before the actual shoot.
•          Keep your model cool, happy and hydrated.
•          DO NOT send unfinished images to your model or anyone who asks for them as this can cause damage to your work.
•          Don’t put too much pressure on yourself. Give yourself a break during shoots. Also, give yourself enough time, taking into consideration when to set up lighting, when to do the make-up etc. 

Remember:

•           Direct your model using hands, be descriptive, get involved. Make sure to communicate with them as much as you can. Try to get to know them.
•          Take mood boards of poses you want them to perform. If they don’t understand, step into the shot and show them exactly what you want.
•          Always keep your model moving, don't let them get cold.
•          Body language – remember to look positive. Don’t fold your arms or whisper to others on set.
•          Ensure to be in a good mood as this will affect not only yourself but everyone around you.
•          Let your model know you’re happy with the images (if you aren’t, be honest but not rude).
•          Chose poses that will suit your model as everyone is different.
•          Have back-up models just in case anything goes wrong.
•          Catch quiet moments when the model is relaxed as some of the best shots are taken when they’re unposed.
•          Look at details i.e. hair, lashes etc. and get it right. Don't rely on Photoshop for everything. 

Key points

Camera settings:

•          M for Manuel – ensure camera is always on Manuel in the studio (on twisty switch)
•          Shutter speed = 1/160 (wheel on top)
•          ISO – exposure of 100 is required
•          Take most pictures in portrait
•          Take pictures in RAW (go on menu, then select image quality)
•          F8.0
•          Select Auto focus
•          50 MM lens (1.4)

Notes:

•          Make sure the floor is clear of any wires for you and your model to be able to walk around safely.
•          Always let a member of staff know of any incidents that occur in the studio.
•          Never get too close to a model as they require personal space.
•          Umbrellas are used to soften the light
•          Always use a reflector to help direct the lighting onto your models face.
•          Spill kill – kills the spill of light so you’re able to direct the light to the direction you wish.
•          Mini boom – good to use so you can navigate properly.
•          With the sync lead, wrap it around the tripod just in case it falls out, it’d still be attached.

Things you’ll need:

•          A camera (preferably Canon 55OD)
•          Hot shoe adaptor
•          Hot shoe cable
•          Tripod
•          Mini boom
•          Kill spill
•          Umbrella
•          Reflector
•          SD card
•          USB stick
•          Extension lead
•          Sync lead

Different types of Photographic lighting

Backlighting:

‘In lighting design, backlighting is the process of illuminating the subject from the back. In other words, the lighting instrument and the viewer face each other, with the subject in between. This creates a glowing effect on the edges of the subject, while other areas are darker. The backlight can be a natural or artificial source of light. When artificial, the back light is usually placed directly behind the subject in a 4-point lighting setup. A back light, which lights foreground elements from the rear, is not to be confused with a background light, which lights background elements (such as scenery).’

(no date) Available at: 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backlighting_(lighting_design) (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Side lighting:

‘Side lighting is light that falls on a subject at roughly ninety degrees to the camera. This means that one side of a subject will be lit and the other side will be in shadow. In terms of helping to convey a subject’s shape and form this is ideal. Of the three directions, side lighting creates the strongest sense that a subject has three dimensions. There’s always a catch however. The catch in this instance is contrast. Side lighting doesn’t evenly illuminate your subject.

Frontal lighting:

‘Frontal lighting is lighting that emanates either from behind the camera or from the camera itself. Built-in or on-camera flash is a frontal light. Frontal lighting has one big advantage. It evenly illuminates your subject so metering is fairly straightforward. However, it tends to flatten a subject. The shadows cast by frontal light are behind the subject, out of sight from the camera’s point of view. Shadows help to give a sense of shape and form to a subject. Without shadows a subject’s shape becomes more ambiguous. Shadows can also add drama to a photo. Frontal light lacks drama, making a photo look more like a record shot and be less interesting for this reason.’

Understanding lighting: Front light, back light & side light (no date) Available at: 
http://www.my-photo-school.com/2013/11/13/understanding-lighting-direction/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Natural lighting:

‘Natural light is considered by many photographers to be the best type of lighting. Because natural light encompasses the entire light spectrum, there is little to no colour distortion in the photograph. However, natural light is not constant; depending on the time of day, the position of the sun and cloud cover, the look of the light changes.

Artificial lighting:

‘Artificial light is more consistent than natural light; however, not all artificial light sources work with the entire light spectrum and can alter how the colours in the photograph look. Types of artificial lights include tungsten, florescent and flash. When using artificial light, photographers will take steps to counteract the unwanted colour distortion.’

Ehlert, S. (2015) Definition of lighting for photography. Available at: http://www.ehow.com/about_6551792_definition-lighting-photography.html (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Rim lighting:

‘A rim light positioned behind the subject and facing toward the camera illuminates the edges of the subject from behind so they glow and are visually separated from the darker background. In portrait photography a rim light is often used to back light the hair’.

ShortCourses-The rim light (no date) Available at: 
http://www.shortcourses.com/use/using6-15.html (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Ambient lighting:

‘Ambient light means the light that is already present in a scene, before any additional lighting is added. It usually refers to natural light, either outdoors or coming through windows etc. It can also mean artificial lights such as normal room lights. This sort of lighting can be the photographer's friend and/or enemy. Clearly ambient light is important in photography and video work, as most shots rely largely or wholly on ambient lighting.’

Ambient light (no date) Available at: 
http://www.mediacollege.com/lighting/ambient/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Soft lighting:

‘Soft light falling on the subject from a source that's large compared to the subject, wraps light around the subject, filling shadows and lowering contrast. Outdoors you see this light on a cloudy bright day when the entire layer of clouds is the light source.

Hard lighting:

‘Hard light coming from a source that's small compared to the subject casts hard shadows and has high contrast. Outdoors you see this light on a bright sunny day. The sun may be very large but it's also far away and small in the sky so it casts hard light on subjects.’

ShortCourses-Understanding hard and soft light (no date) Available at: http://www.shortcourses.com/tabletop/lighting2-8.html (Accessed: 7 December 2015).

Spotlight:

This is when a focused amount of light highlights a particular section your subject/scene. Spotlights can create strong shadows and contrast. It can also add dramatic impacts to all genres of photography.

High/Low key lighting:

‘Both High Key images and Low Key images make an intensive use of contrast, but in a very different way. While High Key images are considered happy and will show your subject as a tooth-paste poster; Low Key portraits are dramatic and convey a lot of atmosphere and tension.

When looking at a High Key picture, you’ll notice two things right away; high exposure levels and lack of contrast. In Low Key images the tone is darker, and the controlling colour is usually black. There will be lots of dark areas in the picture. It is also very common for Low Key images to give special attention to contour lines, emphasizing them with highlights.’

Tirosh, U. (2007) ‘Reviews’, DIY, 4 October. Available at: 
http://www.diyphotography.net/lighting-high-key-and-low-key/ (Accessed: 7 December 2015).